MAKING LIGHT OF IT

For classics used during the winter, moisture can wreak havoc in many ways, especially in terms of compromising electrical continuity…

Recently I have been called upon to sort out non-operating rear number plate lamps on two separate classics. In both cases it was assumed that the bulb concerned had failed, but on removal of the lamp cover it became clear that the trouble was due to corrosion on both the bulb contacts and the ones in the holder. Lamp units mounted within the top, horizontal surfaces of bumpers are especially prone to water ingress. The sealing arrangements for the lamp cover are not always good, especially when the original seals become old and brittle.

In such cases it is worth buying, or making, a new seal to prevent moisture entering the lamp assembly in the future. Alternatively, a bead of flexible sealant can be applied to the original seal, or directly between the lamp cover and the bumper, to help provide protection. The use of such a sealing product should enable the lamp cover to be removed easily when this is next required, although it will be necessary to re-seal it again on re-assembly.

The corrosion typically found on bulb and bulb holder contacts can sometimes be dissolved by applying a little water-dispellant spray and wiping with a soft cloth, or you may need to gently abrade it away. Go easy as the contacts are always delicate and may be very weak. In cases of severe corrosion you may have no alternative but to obtain a replacement lamp unit.

It is often found that the securing screws for number lamp covers are reluctant to come out, especially if they haven’t been removed for a while. Apply penetrating oil around the screw heads, and allow to soak into the threads and try again. On re-assembly, lightly coat the screw threads with copper-based anti-seize compound (or alternatively ordinary lithium-based grease).

I also find it helpful to regularly release such screws a little (say, half a turn or so) and re-tighten them again. If you do this approximately once a year, the screws are then less likely to offer stubborn resistance when you really do need to take them out (usually on a cold, dark, damp winter’s evening!).

 Don’t let your classic crumble! Kim Henson advises on how to preserve its structure...

The single biggest enemy of virtually all classic cars is rust. The chemical conversion of solid steel to a weak mess of ferric oxide (rust) takes place gradually, of course, but it can creep up on you unawares as it  takes its toll on your vehicle. If the damage is left too long, rectification can cost a great deal in terms of time/cash, and can even threaten the continued existence of your car.

Rust forms when moisture and air are allowed to reach unprotected steel, and the process is hastened by the presence of sulphur dioxide from the atmosphere, and impurities such as road salt.

It therefore follows that if the metal is isolated so that contaminants, air and moisture cannot reach it, rust cannot get a grip.

Fortunately this is not difficult, although some effort is required…

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If contemplating fitting a new hood to any classic drophead, including TR models, at the outset closely examine the hood frame assembly and the bodywork in which it is installed. These aspects MUST be right for the hood to fit tidily and look good.

TR HOOD

Q.

I am planning to renew the hood on my early Triumph TR sports car. Is this a job I might be able to tackle myself?

Bill Rainsford, Nottingham.

WHEEL CHECKS

Recent occurrences have prompted me to mention how important it is to carefully and regularly examine your classic’s road wheels. It’s true that they usually survive for decades before serious trouble is likely. Equally though, if a car has often been used in harsh winter conditions, or has been standing unused for a very long period, rusting of wheel structures can become a serious and potentially dangerous issue.

In two cases I have heard about, a road wheel on a classic car has collapsed due to corrosion while the vehicle was being driven. Fortunately in each case nobody was hurt, and serious damage to the vehicle was avoided. Both owners had been unaware of just how weak their wheels had become, but it’s important to appreciate that when a wheel does give way, it usually does so very suddenly, and without any prior warning.

Like any vehicle component made from steel, wheels need to be protected from the elements, so should be cleaned and examined closely at every opportunity – and in any event at least once a year. If damage to the paint coatings is discovered rectify by touching-up as soon as possible, before rust can get a grip. Also inspect wheels, especially rims, for bending or cracks caused by impacts with kerbs, etc.

Whenever tyres are removed from the rims, take a very close look at the well in which each tyre sits; moisture can be trapped and in the long run can wreak havoc with the steel. Wire wheels are especially prone to corrosion damage in this area, as the rim tapes (covering the ends of the spokes) can hold moisture against the steel. Check VERY carefully, for sometimes damage can be severe, yet still be hidden by the tape.

Aluminium wheels should also be checked regularly for corrosion and impact damage.