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Rattling doors can be caused by loose window runners, insecure trim panels or other components such as a worn/badly adjusted striker plate/pin or latch mechanism. Releasing the locknut and moving/rotating the pin (as shown) can work wonders.

RATTLING DOOR

Q.

The driver’s door on my classic has recently started to rattle and it’s especially bad when driving on rough surfaces. Please can you advise how I can fix it.

Mary Silvester, Oxford

A.

There are several possible causes of rattles from doors. First check that the window glass runners/channels are not worn out. If the felt or rubber lining in the channels is worn, the glass will move within the steel frame and knock against it. Depending on the car it may be possible to buy complete new channel assembles, or alternatively in some cases the original channels can be re-lined with new felt or rubber.

Check too that the interior door handles and window winding mechanisms are securely fitted; often the retaining screws/nuts work loose. Another common cause of doors rattling is a badly adjusted or worn door shut/striker plate/latch assembly mechanism.

The design varies from model to model, but in all types incorrect adjustment or wear in the striker plate/pin/latch fittings can allow the door to move in and out at will, resulting in the noise. Often it is possible to slacken the securing screws/nut(s) and move the pillar-mounted striker plate/pin/latch inwards a little, bringing the door into closer contact with the body shell.

If a circular pin type assembly is mounted on the pillar, in time the pin can suffer from wear on one side. This can be obviated simply by slackening the securing nut and rotating the pin 90 or 180 degrees to present an unworn face.

For any Pinto-powered classic, at each service it is wise to include a close inspection of the timing/cam belt. Check for any deterioration of the belt, including between the drive teeth and renew at once if any damage is discovered.

PINTO TIMING BELT

Q.

I have recently acquired an old Ford which is powered by a Pinto overhead camshaft engine. I have previously owned several crossflow Fords but never, until now, a Pinto-engined car and am struggling to find a recommended change period for the cam (timing) belt. Please can you help?

John Everson, Bristol

A.

We can find no reference to a specific recommended time or mileage at which the cam belt should be changed on a Pinto engine. However, trade sources advise that it is wise to change the belt at 60,000 miles, or earlier as a matter of course. In addition, at each service it is advisable to closely inspect the belt, checking for any evidence of oil contamination, cracking or other damage – in which case the belt should be changed at once. Make sure that the belt is correctly tensioned too.

If you don’t know the service history of your Ford, it would be a good idea to fit a new belt regardless for peace of mind. It is known that in the event of belt failure on 1.6- and 1.8-litre Pinto motors, engine-damaging valve to piston contact is very likely to occur. While such contact/potential damage is said to be ‘less likely’ in the case of the 2.0-litre units, we’ve heard of cases where damage has occurred (especially in modified units), so really it’s not worth risking.

Many components within the fuel systems on classic cars – including those made from rubber, cork and some metals – can be damaged by the corrosive effects of ethanol in petrol. This will result in fuel leaks and blockages…

ETHANOL – SHOULD I WORRY?

Q.

I have been informed by a friend that older cars are soon to be hit by yet another potential problem concerning the make-up of modern fuels. He’s read that the percentage of ethanol in petrol is set to increase, with the result that our fuel systems will be unable to cope. Is this scaremongering or have we really got a problem?

Andrew Barnaby, Gravesend

A.

Ethanol (a bio fuel additive) is already present in petrol sold on UK forecourts. The often-debated environmental benefits (or otherwise) of using ethanol are controversial, but regardless of the pros and cons on this front, all petrol currently sold in Britain contains five per cent ethanol − and there is no requirement for this to be disclosed at the pump.

This percentage is due to increase to ten per cent in the very near future. For modern vehicles produced in the last few years, with fuel systems designed for compatibility with ethanol this should not present a problem. However, by contrast the components in the petrol supply systems in older vehicles can suffer, and the greater the percentage of ethanol, the greater the probability of serious trouble. Traditional type rubber and cork seals can disintegrate, forming a jelly-like substance which blocks fuel pipes, filters and carburettor orifices. In addition, some tank sealants and fibre-glass coatings are ‘dissolved’ by ethanol.

Ethanol (an alcohol) attracts/absorbs water from the atmosphere and if fuel containing ethanol is left in a petrol tank for any length of time, this can bring about very damaging corrosion/erosion of the lead or tin alloy-plated steel forming the tank structure. Prolonged exposure to ethanol is also extremely bad news for some other metals (which are corroded/weakened by it), including aluminium, brass, zinc and lead.

So petrol leaks, as well as blocked pipes and carburettor jets/fuel injectors, will result.

What can you do? At the very least, try to run the vehicle as often as possible, so that fresh fuel is constantly passing through the system and does not have the chance to absorb too much water from the air. In addition, try to minimise the amount of air in the tank by keeping the fuel level topped up.

If a vehicle is to be left unused for a long period, draining down the fuel system may be advisable. Some additives, developed specifically to combat the main drawbacks of increasing amounts of ethanol being included in modern fuels, are already available on the market.

We should be grateful that the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) is currently testing the effectiveness of several additive products, and in due course the organisation will report on the results.

Valve cover gaskets have a habit of bending inwards along their longest sides, as the cover is fitted to the engine. The sparing application of gasket sealing compound will help to prevent the gasket from moving in this way, and ensures a good seal.

MOVING GASKET

Q.

Every time I try to fit a new valve cover gasket to my classic, the sides of the gasket tend to move inwards as the cover is put in place, and oil leaks result. How can I stop this happening?

Lee-Anne Simpson, Cambridge

A.

First, remove all traces of oil from the gasket face on the valve cover (ideally using a little ‘spirit wipe’ or ‘panel wipe’ solution, applied using a clean cloth). Now sparingly apply a gasket sealing compound to the gasket face (also, if advised in the product instructions on the tube, to the valve cover), and allow the sealant to turn ‘tacky’. Carefully fit the gasket to the valve cover, ensuring that it is fully engaged all the way around, then press it fully ‘home’, and allow the sealant to cure. Now the gasket should not move out of position as the cover is re-fitted to the engine.

New gaskets can be made at home by employing a sheet of gasket material, a sharp pair of scissors and a ‘tube’ type cutter. Make sure that all apertures in the gasket are in precisely the correct positions, or difficulty in fitting and/or oil leaks may result.

5. HUB SEAL OIL LEAKS

Q.

Despite renewing the gasket on my car’s left hand rear hub assembly, axle oil is still weeping out. The oil seal is fine, the lubricant is coming from the gasket itself, which seems to be thinner than the old one I removed. How can I solve this leak?

Bill Tempest, Altrincham

A.

First check that the gasket faces on the hub assembly and axle shaft are undamaged and unwarped. In addition, ensure that the bearing is correctly located in the hub assembly.

If all seems well so far, try installing a slightly thicker gasket. This can be made from gasket material (obtainable in varying thicknesses from motor accessory shops and specialist suppliers).

Using the hub assembly, or preferably the old gasket as a template, cut out a new gasket using scissors and ideally use a ‘tube’ type cutter/punch of the appropriate diameter to make the apertures for the wheel studs. Sets of such cutters can be obtained relatively inexpensively from tool suppliers and are invaluable for making all sorts of gaskets.

Washer-type spacers installed between the body and chassis on Triumph models (and other classics with separate chassis frames) can be modified by cutting ‘V’ shaped slots on one side to enable easy insertion/removal without removing the body.

BODY TO CHASSIS SPACERS

Q.

How can I alter the adjustment of my Triumph Herald’s body relative to the chassis? I wish to add more spacers (large circular washers) but can’t see how to do this without lifting the body right off the chassis to gain access to the studs in order to fit the spacers/washers over them.

Doug French, London

A.

One way to do this is to cut ‘V’ shaped slots in the spacers/washers, using a hacksaw. You can then insert spacers at will, after releasing the securing nuts on the studs concerned and CAREFULLY jacking up the body to open the gap.